Susan E. Greisen

It had been over 5 decades since I lived, worked, and traveled in Africa. Now, 50+ years older, I returned as a tourist with my goal to experience the people and culture and not focus on a bucket list of seeing the big “FIVE”. (I did, however, have the Rwandan Gorillas on my list that I did write about. But the Rwandan people were so remarkable that I wrote about them separately in an earlier blog.)

In March of 2023, I traveled to 5 African countries I had never visited before: Rwanda, South Africa, Zimbabwe, Zambia, and Botswana with an organized tour, Overseas Adventure Travel (OAT). I recall the peril of African women when I lived in Liberia from 1971-73 and again in Cameroon from 1980-82. I wondered if the status of women had changed in the heart of Africa.

“Yes and No.”

In all of these countries, I saw Women’s Cooperatives; signs of empowerment with women-owned businesses in many areas, even in the villages. My observation is that Africa remains, predominantly, a patriarchal society with women still paying a high price. Fifty years ago, divorce was unheard of. Now, it can happen in many counties due to infidelity, no financial family support, an absent spouse, or other reasons. With more women supporting their families, and too old to remarry, many cooperatives were created with the help of NGOs or Faith-based entities. 

I was pleased to see African women taking charge of their destiny.

By using their current or newly acquired skills, they are selling their wares to the public: food products, baskets, clothing goods, or pottery, just to name a few. Even if they were married, it is a way to supplement the family income. I was fortunate to visit several of these cooperatives on my tour and buy their creations from the women directly. Here is my basket made by Elizabeth. There’s a baby tied to her back. 

When I arrived in Zimbabwe, our female tour group was able to have a conversation with the women working at our safari camp. All of the 5 women had children but one, and none of them had a supportive man/husband in the picture. The children were cared for by aunts, sisters or mothers while they worked 24/7, on three weeks, off one week. None of them truly desired marriage except for the one woman who had no children. The explanation is complex and historical in nature. The ethnic groups in this region were nomadic historically; herding and hunting. During colonial times, industry and jobs for the men lured them to the large cities, leaving the women and children tending to the crops and animals. Polyamourous relationships now seem the norm. The women still need to care for their children and some have sought hospitality jobs in tourism.

I don’t want to say that most African men are abandoning their families. In fact, many of our tour guides, very sincere and kind men, spoke very highly of their wives and children. Here are two of them.

Dumi, our main OAT guide

Dima, our safari driver for Botswana

To some of my followers this blog may be difficult to read without judgement. However, not so long ago, many women in America were, and still are, judged. For example, a woman friend, my age, who had become a young grade school teacher, was told she needed to vacate her position after she married. And two of my pregnant high school classmates had to leave their senior year and could not graduate. Pregnant women in schools were not to be seen back then. Judgement is still among us, but progress of women’s rights have been made.

I was fortunate to meet a wonderful South African woman returning to Cape Town on the plane as I was going to Rwanda. Jessica is an example of an excelling African woman going beyond and truly taking charge of her destiny and passion. She is a physician and is extending her PHD degree to Spatial Biology, the Science of healing. She visited me this summer in Bellingham, WA.

I’m happy to hear of the progress African women have made. They are truly the backbone of Africa. I write about this affectionately in my poems called Fulani Woman, Liberian woman.

I look forward to your reply below.